Last year Hamilton and I went hiking in Yosemite and loved it so much that we wanted to explore another national park on foot. We also wanted to stay in the US to let some of the pandemic travel hassles ease a bit more. Both of us have traveled extensively in the US. I have been in all 50 states—most of them more than once. Hamilton has been to every state except Oregon but neither of us had been to Olympic National Park in Washington State. It was an easy choice as we have some delightful second cousins just outside of Seattle. Family and nature are the perfect combination for our travels.
We happily left a heatwave in Tennessee for the much cooler Pacific Northwest. The last bits of cool, cloudy weather were receding and the first days of bright blue summer sky were on the horizon. Our flights through Houston went well and we quickly got a rental car and headed south in a slight drizzle. We were met by our dear cousin LaVona and her perfectly tidy house and garden. She had done a lot of cooking for our stay and we were made to feel so welcome and loved. Hamilton and LaVona’s grandmothers were sisters from a lively group of 8 siblings all with “L” names. We had great times remembering Lizzie, Leona, Lula, Lillie and Laura, the five sisters who were all raised in south Mississippi at the turn of the last century.
The first full day in Washington we visited Mount Rainier National Park, just an hour away. It was overcast and the enormous mountain was invisible behind dense clouds. I wasn’t convinced there really was a mountain (elev. 14,411 ft) but the surrounding land was picture perfect as we drove through dense evergreen forests, past gorgeous waterfalls, over glacier-made valleys and finally to the main visitor center which still had a 10 foot snowpack. We watched a short movie about the mountain, so large that the circumnavigating trail is 93 miles. We had a picnic in the light drizzle and were entertained by the Gray Jays who show no fear when food is around. Don’t tell the rangers but I fed one of them grapes out of my hand; his little feet were so soft and gentle on my finger. The Stellar Jays kept their distance but are they ever a beautiful blue. The rest of the weekend we visited with more cousins and Hamilton and I had our first attempt at Pickleball. I can see why it is so popular.
Monday morning, we headed toward Olympic National Park, my third national park in five days—I just finish climbing Mt. LeConte in the Great Smoky Mountain the week before. Cousins LaVona, Keren and Kate joined us for our week’s adventure as they had never been to Olympic either. On our way to our Airbnb in Forks, WA, we stopped by our first rainforest path and rocky beach, both so beautiful that we were glad to have three more days on the western side of the park. The Airbnb was clean but otherwise basic with a strange Hogwarts theme. Hamilton and I had the Slytherin room. Forks, Washington, is the setting for the Twilight books and movies because it is the cloudiest/rainiest town in American—prefect for vampires. I watched my first-ever Twilight movie so that I could get in the spirit of the town. Magic, Vampires and a local Sasquatch legend—something for everyone.
The next three days we spent time on the magnificent rocky beaches. Rialto beach was just a half hour away and had beautiful rock islands close to the shore. We walked about 1.5 miles to a big arch in the rocky coast and explored the tidepools filled with anemones and starfish. On the forest edge of the beach were whole spruce-tree driftwood that were like giant whalebones, gleaming white and smooth, perfect for sitting and just staring at the surf on the rocks. Or stacking the surf-smoothed stones. Or breathing the cleansing salt air. It was an overcast day so the whole world was a gray-scale wonder: green-black trees, deep-gray stone, light-gray water and sky, white caped waves and bone-white driftwood trees. Another day we walked the .8 mile path through the forest to Second Beach where we had a whole mile of sand and surf in front of us without another soul in sight, my kind of beach.
One of the crown jewels of Olympic is the Hoh Rainforest. We set out early to beat the crowds in the parking lot and were rewarded with a perfectly cloudless morning and a visit with one of the resident Roosevelt elk enjoying her breakfast of weeds in the stream. The sun shone through the tendrils of moss hanging from every tree. There were patches of sun highlighting the ferns on the forest floor. It was so hard to know where to look next, so we slowly wandered around the trails, taking pictures that will never come close to showing the beauty of this full sensory place. The sacredness of the forest was palpable, and we kept our voices to a whisper in reverence for this holy ground. It was so primordial that a T Rex or Brachiosaurs could come wandering by at any moment or a fairy could be flying around, flitting between trees and ferns. We stopped by the Hoh river for our picnic lunch on one of the rocky bars in the middle of the river. It was hard to leave the forest but the crowds were growing and we wanted more beach time.
Our evenings in Forks were so pleasant. LaVona had made several delicious casseroles, one for each evening. A salad and cake made each meal a feast. Then we would settle in for some binge watching. Hamilton and cousin Keren watched all of ‘1883’ and I watched/slept through a couple of the Twilight movies. The five of us were happy and compatible, everyone looking out for the other’s needs and wishes.
Our final day together we headed east to Hurricane Ridge visitors center to get a full view of the Olympic range. At 5000 feet, there was still big patches of snow and we definitely needed our warm jackets. We climbed the steep short path that gave a 360 degree view with the snowcapped Olympic mountains on one side and the Puget Sound on the other. It was a clear, bright day and we could see Vancouver Island, Canada, and Mount Baker in the distance. After lunch we said our goodbyes to our dear relatives as they needed to head home. I had booked our last night at Crescent Lake where we enjoyed a picnic supper in our room with the view of the sapphire lake for entertainment. The next morning, we took a short walk to Marymere Falls and then a hike on Spruce Railroad Trail, a former railroad bed complete with tunnels. The bike/hiking trail meandered along the lake’s edge and we enjoyed the changing views of the mountains. We hiked to the end and back for a total of 8 miles. It was the perfect ending to our time in Olympic and we couldn’t have been happier with our six days in this wondrous park.
On our way back to the Seattle airport we finally saw the elusive Mount Rainier and it is massive. It made for a fitting farewell for our delightful time on the Olympic peninsula. Olympic has rainforest, mountains, lakes, beaches, waterfalls. The only thing it lacked was a desert to be about every type of climate. We were blessed with great weather, good company and our amazing sacred earth.
Great pictures! Glad you had fun! Steven Frampton
Thank you for this entry! I lived in Port Orchard WA 36 years ago and miss Mt Rainier, the Olympics and Cascade mountains as well as the Pacific Ocean beaches very much having returned to PA. It was great to read your travels which sparked a lot of wonderful memories of my years spent living in that wonderful area of the US.
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