We were a day behind schedule so the best way to make up some time was to skip the difficult industrial walk into Leon. There was a cathedral waiting for me so we got an early morning taxi just in time to hear the organ playing the recessional from Sunday Mass in the Leon Cathedral.

The Leon Cathedral is magnificent, not as much gold as the other Spanish churches but stunning stained glass windows. The sun was high enough that the light streamed through the thousands of square feet of glass.

The lovely side chapels had quiet Gregorian chant playing on the speakers giving a sacred moment even more joy. One of the chapels was for St Therese of Avila, pen in hand ready to write about her visions.

I went to the museum next door while Alexandra sat with our packs enjoying the morning. I was taken through the cloisters to the museum and the locked in to wander by myself through a beautiful collection of sacred art. Then unlocked and relocked into another section. It was a bit unnerving being locked in alone, that would have scared Alexandra.

We had lunch in an “American” restaurant, the food was close enough that Alexandra was happy, she is a bit tired of the limited choices in rural Spain.

My next mission was to see The Holy Grail at the Basilica of St Isidore. The museum had an amazing library of ancient books and other relics and fresco paintings. Once again we were locked in and out of rooms. The final room held The Chalice of Agates. We gasped as we walked in, the golden, jeweled chalice glowed in the dark room. It was a grand sight, definitely a pilgrim moment.

We headed to our final destination for the night, Villar de Mazarife. There was a lovely new Albergue with a lawn to enjoy and a women’s only bathroom, a nice change from the coed ones.

The pilgrim’s meal in the basement was the best we have had with nice green salad, pumpkin soup, paella and a crepe for dessert. A happy ending to a very memorable day.